Resources

Cleaning Concrete Masonry

INTRODUCTION

Concrete masonry buildings offer exceptional beauty, coupled with attributes such as structural strength, durability, fire resistance, acoustic performance and low maintenance. Proper cleaning after construction and throughout the life of the building will help preserve concrete masonry’s beauty.

Although the maintenance needs of a well-designed and constructed masonry wall are minimal, contaminants can detract from an otherwise attractive structure. Cleaning of mortar smears, construction dirt and possibly efflorescence from the construction phase is usually required. Subsequent cleaning may be required over the life of the building to address dirt and soot from the atmosphere or staining from specific sources. Appropriate cleaning can remove contaminants and help produce a more uniform appearance.

This TEK discusses several general cleaning methods, applicable to whole-wall cleaning. For information on removing stains or localized contaminants, refer to Removal of Stains From Concrete Masonry, TEK 08-02A (ref. 7).

SUBSTRATES

The ease of cleaning a masonry wall can be affected by the concrete masonry units and mortar used in the wall. Cleaning products and techniques applicable to one masonry wall may not be appropriate for others. In addition, special consideration should be given to walls incorporating more than one material, such as a concrete masonry wall with clay masonry banding.

Concrete Masonry Units

Conventional, or nonarchitectural, concrete masonry units (CMUs) have a relatively smooth surface, formed from a thin layer of cement paste resulting from the typical concrete masonry manufacturing process. Aggressive cleaning methods may remove this layer, exposing aggregate and altering the final appearance. For this reason, any aggressive cleaning should be performed consistently across the entire wall surface for a uniform appearance after cleaning. In some cases, abrasive cleaning or pressure chemical cleaning are specified with smooth faced units to produce a slightly mottled “stone washed” appearance.

Ground faced units (also called honed or burnished) are polished after manufacture to achieve a smooth finish with the appearance of polished natural stone. Coatings, which are often used to deepen the color, can also help cleaning efforts by preventing dirt and other contaminants from penetrating the surface. When using ground faced units, every effort should be made to keep the units clean and free from mortar smears and droppings during construction. When required, these units can be resealed after final cleaning.

Other architectural CMU, such as split faced, split fluted and tumbled units have a natural stone-like texture produced during manufacture. The rough texture tends to hide minor soiling and makes these units more forgiving of minor efflorescence or other discolorations. This texture is also more suited to cleaning with abrasives, if that technique is required.

Glazed concrete masonry units are manufactured by bonding a permanent colored facing (typically composed of polyester resins, silica sand and various other chemicals) to a concrete masonry unit. The result is a smooth impervious surface, highly resistant to staining and easily cleaned. During construction, mortar and grout smears and droppings should be cleaned off while still easily removable, before they harden completely to the surface.

Typical Sizes and Shapes of Concrete Masonry Units, CMUTEC-001 23 (ref. 5), contains more information on the various types of concrete masonry unit finishes.

Mortar

Choosing a mortar color close to that of the concrete masonry unit makes cleaning the wall of mortar smears easier, as the mortar tends to blend in. Mortar color should be chosen to match the unit color when smooth or ground faced units are used, as they can be difficult to clean without altering the appearance. Walls with contrasting mortar and masonry unit colors may require more aggressive cleaning to remove visible mortar.

In general, the lowest-strength mortar that will meet project requirements should be specified. Higher cement content mortars with higher compressive strengths should not be assumed to have better field performance, in fact the opposite is more often true. Mortars with lower compressive strengths tend to be easier to clean off the face of the wall than are stronger mortars. Lower strength mortars also exhibit better workability, which tends to increase quality of construction. Note that building codes may restrict the use of some mortars for particular applications. More detailed information on masonry mortars is available in TEK 09-01A, Mortars for Concrete Masonry (ref. 4).

CLEANING DURING CONSTRUCTION

Many stains can be prevented or minimized through proper design, construction and maintenance procedures. Construction practices can greatly impact the amount of cleaning required for a newly constructed wall. For example, proper grouting procedures can help prevent grout blowouts and the associated clean up. Keeping the masonry as clean and dry as possible during construction can allow for less aggressive cleaning methods when construction is complete.

Cleaning exposed concrete masonry during construction encompasses such issues as the control of efflorescence and of mortar and grout droppings and smears. Detailed information on construction practices that minimize efflorescence are discussed in Control and Removal of Efflorescence, TEK 08-03A (ref. 1). The following are recommended practices for minimizing mortar and grout stains during construction (refs. 3, 6):

  • Mortar squeezed out of mortar joints as units are placed should be cut off with the edge of the trowel, and care should be taken that the mortar doesn’t fall onto the wall surface or smear the surface as it falls off.
  • When mortar does land on or smear the surface of the concrete masonry unit, it should be removed after initial set. Walls should be cut and brushed clean before scaffolding is raised.
  • Do not cut mortar tags off until the mortar is thumbprint hard, particularly on split faced units. Similarly, joints should not be tooled until thumbprint hard.
  • Mortar droppings which adhere to the exposed face of the units can be removed with a trowel or chisel after being allowed to harden. Any remaining mortar can then be removed with a stiff fiber or bristle brush.
  • Excess mortar should be periodically removed from scaffolding.
  • Grout spills should be immediately removed by washing and brushing.
  • The base of the wall should be protected from splashing mud and mortar and grout droppings by spreading plastic sheets 3 to 4 ft (914 to 1,219 mm) on the ground adjacent to the wall and 2 to 3 ft (609 to 914 mm) up the face of the wall.

In addition to these recommendations, newly constructed masonry should be protected when adjacent construction procedures may splatter or otherwise stain the masonry. For example, plastic should be placed over masonry when concrete is poured nearby and when curing agent is sprayed.

PLANNING THE CLEANING PROCEDURE

The cleaning agent and procedure should be carefully planned, based on the type of contaminant and desired results. The cleaning method chosen should be the least aggressive that will effectively clean the wall. Before cleaning, ensure that mortar joints are cured, so the cleaning does not damage them.

Cleaning methods may alter the appearance of the finished masonry; typically, at least some cement paste is removed from the surface of the units. When this happens, more aggregate is exposed to view, which can alter the color. In general, the more aggressive the cleaning method, the more paste is removed and the greater the potential for altering the wall’s appearance. For example, sandblasting can be expected to alter the appearance to a greater degree than cleaning by hand with detergent and water. Note also that the same cleaning method may have different results based on the specific procedures used. Sandblasting at a lighter pressure will produce different results from sandblasting at a higher pressure. Again, the mildest cleaning method that will satisfy should be chosen.

The cleaning agent and procedures should first be used on a sample panel or inconspicuous location to assess: their effectiveness for the type of contaminant being removed; their effect, if any, on the finished masonry appearance; as well as the agreed upon level of cleanliness. After cleaning, the sample panel should be viewed from a distance of 20 ft (6,096 mm) under diffused lighting to evaluate the results.

Whichever cleaning method is chosen, it is important that all of the masonry be cleaned in the exact same manner (including dilution rate, brushing/scraping method, dwell time, reapplication, rinse procedure, etc.) to maintain a uniform appearance. Similarly, care should be taken to avoid overlap of areas being cleaned, as this may lead also to a nonuniform appearance.

Materials such as glass, metal, wood, architectural concrete or concrete masonry and any landscaping adjacent to the area to be cleaned should be adequately protected, since they may be damaged by contact with some stain removers or by physical cleaning methods. The level of protection and area requiring protection vary with the cleaning method, so the cleaning agent manufacturer’s recommendations should be followed.

If a surface water repellent is specified for the wall after cleaning, it should be applied as soon as conditions allow to minimize further moisture absorption or soiling.

CLEANING METHODS

The methods of cleaning concrete masonry can generally be divided into four categories: hand cleaning, water cleaning, abrasive cleaning and chemical cleaning (ref. 2). Cleaning by any method should be performed on an inconspicuous section of the building or a sample panel to ascertain its effect.

Hand Cleaning

Simple hand tools such as a trowel, chisel, stiff bristle or fiber brush, abrasive block or broken piece of masonry are first used for cleaning during construction. Steel-wire brushes should not be used because they can leave behind metal particles that may rust and stain the masonry.

Water Cleaning

Water cleaning involves scrubbing with water and detergent, water soaking, steam cleaning or pressure washing. When using water cleaning methods, the amount of water used should be limited to the least amount that will effectively clean the wall, as any water that enters the wall may promote efflorescence. See Control and Removal of Efflorescence, TEK 08-03A (ref. 1), for more detail.

Unpainted walls can usually be cleaned by scrubbing with water and a small amount of detergent. This is a nonaggressive cleaning method that generally does not alter the masonry appearance. It may not be cost-effective for large areas, however, due to the labor involved.

Clay or dirt should first be removed with a dry brush. Steel-wire brushes should not be used because any metal particles left on the masonry surface may rust and stain the masonry. Nonmetal brushes such as stiff fiber or nylon are preferred. Soaking with water causes dirt deposits to swell, loosening their grip on the underlying masonry and allowing them to be flushed away with water. Again, this method may not be appropriate if efflorescence is the primary concern.

Heated water is useful on greasy surfaces or during cold weather. However, when used with alkaline chemicals, warm water should not exceed 160° F (71° C). There is no significant advantage to using hot water with acid cleaners (ref. 2).

Pressure washing equipment can be effective for surface cleaning, and is often specified for masonry restoration work to avoid the use of harsh chemicals. Water pressure should be kept to a minimum to avoid driving water into the wall which can cause efflorescence. Note that high pressures can damage masonry or alter the final appearance. Using a consistent pressure and maintaining a set distance from the wall will produce the most uniform results. If high pressure cleaning is used, it is recommended that:

a) the pressure be limited to 400 to 600 psi (2.76 – 4.14 MPa),
b) a wide flange tip be used, never a pointed tip,
c) the tip be kept at least 12 in. (305 mm) from the masonry surface, and
d) the spray be directed at a 45o angle to the wall (never perpendicular to the wall). Pressure washing can also be used as an adjunct to scrubbing. The mild agitation created by brush application improves the overall cleaning results and enables the rinsing pressure to be kept to a minimum.

Steam cleaning has been virtually supplanted by pressure washing. However, by supplementing heat to the water, the action of loosening and softening dirt particles and grease is improved, allowing them to be more easily rinsed away. Steam is normally generated in a flash boiler and directed toward the wall using a wand at a pressure of 10 to 80 psi (69 to 552 kPa), depending on the equipment used. Although steam cleaning is less aggressive than pressure washing, it is also slower.

Chemical Cleaning

Many proprietary cleansing agents are available for concrete masonry; the concrete masonry manufacturer can be consulted for recommended compatible products. Premixed chemicals eliminate many potential problems, such as those associated with mixing reactive chemicals. They are also mixed in the proper proportions to be safely used on masonry. Strict adherence to the manufacturer’s directions is required, to protect both the user and the masonry, and to avoid any potentially harmful runoff.

When used in conjunction with water washing techniques, chemical surfectants help dissolve contaminants and allow them to be washed away during the final rinsing process. If chemical cleaning agents are used, the surfaces to be cleaned must be thoroughly prewetted with low water pressure (maximum 30 to 50 psi, 207 to 345 kPa), cleansing agents must be diluted as directed by the manufacturer and the application pressures should be kept to a minimum. After application of the cleansing agent, the wall should be thoroughly rinsed with fresh water (preferably at low pressure), or if necessary at high pressure using the precautions discussed in the Water Cleaning section.

Chemical cleaning can be a more aggressive method than pressure washing and is often more efficient and cost effective. With proper technique, the results are uniform across the wall, although the wall’s final appearance can be changed by using this method. Apply chemical cleaning solutions with low pressure spray (less than 50 psi, 345 kPa) or soft-fibered brushes.

Chemical cleaning solutions can be used to clean concrete masonry without damaging the surface; avoid using raw or undiluted acids. Even diluted acids should be used with caution, and only after thoroughly prewetting the wall, as acids dissolve the cement matrix at the masonry surface and can also damage any integral water repellent at the surface. This leaves the face more porous and exposes more aggregate, thereby changing the color and texture of the masonry. In the case of masonry with an integral water repellent, acids can also reduce the water repellency at the surface. Acids should never be applied under pressure. As a guideline, any cleaner with a pH below 4 or 5 should be considered to be acidic in nature. In addition, highly alkaline products require an acidic neutralizing afterwash as well as thorough rinsing; efflorescence can be an unwanted result if there is residual alkali.

Abrasive Cleaning

Abrasive cleaning is the most aggressive cleaning method, as the objective is not to wash away surface contaminants, but to remove the outer portion of the masonry in which the stain is deposited. For this reason, it should not be used on ground faced units, where the surface is smooth and polished. Although abrasive cleaning includes methods such as grinding wheels, sanding discs and sanding belts, it typically refers to grit blasting, also called sandblasting. Note that the use of silica sand is restricted in some areas due to its classification as an irritant, but many other blasting media are available.

Because it is a dry process, sandblasting will not promote efflorescence and can be performed in cold weather. As with pressure chemical cleaning, the cleaning method produces a consistent result across the wall with proper technique.

Care must be exercised when using abrasive cleaning techniques since overzealous applications can cause drastic changes to the appearance, durability and water tightness of the masonry. Sandblasting can alter the appearance of the masonry by roughening the surface or exposing aggregate. This is less of a concern with split faced units. In some cases, sandblasting can accelerate deterioration by increasing surface porosity. Pretesting using a sample panel is critical when sandblasting is considered.

To minimize potential damage, softer abrasives such as crushed corn husks, walnut shells or glass or plastic beads can be used. This process, sometimes called micro-peening, is slower and more costly and generally is not applicable to large scale cleaning operations.

Protective equipment and clothing must be used, including an approved respirator under a hood. Most of the dust that accompanies a dry sandblasting process can be eliminated by introducing water into the air-grit stream at the nozzle. However, the smaller particles remain a health hazard, so the same protective equipment and clothing are needed as for the dry process. The wet process requires the extra step of rinsing down the cleaned surface after blasting.

Sandblasting removes any previously applied water-resistant surface coatings, so these will need to be reapplied after abrasive cleaning.

CONCLUSION

Concrete masonry units are available in a variety of finishes, including ground faced, split faced and glazed. Contaminants from construction, such as mortar smears, and from the atmosphere after years of exposure can mar the otherwise attractive appearance of concrete masonry buildings. Cleaning methods that have been effective include hand cleaning and the use of water, chemical solutions and abrasive blasting. Some CMU manufacturers provide cleaning recommendations; in other cases, a knowledgeable professional may help determine how cleaning should best be accomplished. Field testing of cleaning materials and techniques helps ensure the desired results.

REFERENCES

  1. Control and Removal of Efflorescence, TEK 08-03A, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 2003.
  2. Grimm, Clayford T., Cleaning Masonry – A Review of the Literature, Construction Research Center, University of Texas at Arlington, November 1988.
  3. Masonry Cleaning Guide. Rocky Mountain Masonry Institute, 2001.
  4. Mortars for Concrete Masonry, TEK 09-01A, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 2004.
  5. Concrete Masonry Unit Shapes, Sizes, Properties and Specifications, CMU-TEC-001-23, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 2023.
  6. Concrete Masonry Construction, TEK 03-08A, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 2001.
  7. Removal of Stains From Concrete Masonry, TEK 08-02A, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 1998.

Control and Removal of Efflorescence

INTRODUCTION

Efflorescence is a deposit of soluble salts and bases, usually white in color, that sometimes appear on the surfaces of masonry or concrete construction. Although it may be an aesthetic concern, efflorescence will not affect structural performance.

Often efflorescence is apparent just after the structure is completed. If the efflorescence is essentially uniform throughout the exterior facade, it indicates normal water loss from the materials and the building. Some identify this occurrence as “early age” efflorescence or “new building bloom”. If unattended, the salts will eventually be removed by rain water.

If the deposit is heavy and essentially shows as white streaks immediately below mortar joints or covering localized areas of the masonry, it indicates that water has entered or is entering the wall at a higher elevation. These salts are called leachates, referred to “lime spots”, “lime runs” and “lime deposits”; and are sometimes identified as “late age” or recurrent efflorescence. Late age or recurrent efflorescence usually consists of more permanent surface accumulations and indicates a need for corrective measures.

This TEK discusses the various mechanisms which cause efflorescence and presents recommendations for its control and removal.

CAUSES OF EFFLORESCENCE

A combination of circumstances causes efflorescence. First, there must be soluble compounds in the masonry. Second, moisture must be present to pick up the soluble salts and carry them to the surface. Third, some force—evaporation or hydrostatic pressure—must cause the solution to move. If any one of these conditions is eliminated, efflorescence will not occur.

Source of Salts

The individual elements and compounds associated with efflorescence may be present in concrete masonry units, mortar and grout. However, efflorescence of masonry is generally attributed to water soluble sodium, potassium and calcium.

These solutions either precipitate as hydroxides or combine with atmospheric carbon dioxide and sulfur trioxide. The compounds produced by the combination of these elements are white or yellow salts, all of which are less water soluble than their former hydroxide counterparts. Chlorides are usually a result of contamination of masonry units and sand by sea water or runoff from alkaline soils. Since chloride salts are highly soluble in water, rain will often wash them off.

The amount and character of the deposits vary according to the nature of the soluble materials and the atmospheric conditions. Efflorescence is particularly affected by temperature, humidity and wind. In the summer, even after long rainy periods, moisture evaporates so quickly that comparatively small amounts of efflorescence are brought to the surface. Thus, efflorescence is more common in the winter when a slower rate of evaporation allows migration of salts to the surface. In spring, condensation frozen within the masonry may be released by warm weather allowing for further solubilizing of compounds and their migration to the surface. With the passage of time, efflorescence becomes lighter and less extensive unless an external source of salts or recurrent water migration is present.

In most cases, compounds that cause efflorescence are water soluble and are left on the surface as the water containing them evaporates. Sometimes, however, chemicals in the construction materials react with chemicals in the atmosphere to form the efflorescence. In the case of concrete masonry or mortar, the hydrated cement contains some calcium hydroxide (soluble) as a product of the reaction between cement or lime and water. When this calcium hydroxide is brought to the surface by water it combines with carbon dioxide in the air to form calcium carbonate (slightly soluble), which then appears as a whitish deposit.

Cements used in the production of mortar and concrete masonry units contain small amounts of water soluble compounds of sodium and potassium. Such water soluble alkalis, present as only a few tenths of one percent, can appear as efflorescence when leached out of the masonry by migrating moisture and concentrated at some point on the surface.

In addition to the masonry materials, building trim such as concrete copings, sills and lintels may also contain considerable amounts of soluble compounds. Some admixtures or ground water may also contribute to efflorescence. Most admixtures are proprietary and their compositions are not disclosed. Accordingly, the efflorescence potential of such admixtures should be determined by experience or laboratory tests. Dispersing agents used in pigments may increase the potential for efflorescence.

Sources of Moisture

Water serves as the vehicle by which soluble salts and bases are transported to the surface, where they accumulate as the water evaporates. The primary source of moisture is rain water. Rain water may enter the wall through one or more of the following paths permeable masonry units, partially filled mortar joints, inadequate flashing and sealing details, and cracks or other openings in the wall.

Considerable moisture may also enter a masonry wall as vapor from the interior of a building and accumulate within the wall as it condenses. Excessive accumulation of condensed water vapor may lead to efflorescence.

A third source of moisture that may contribute to the future formation of efflorescence is water that enters the masonry during construction. Improper protection of masonry during and after construction can allow considerable moisture to enter, which can cause efflorescence.

Masonry in contact with soil, such as in basement and retaining walls, may absorb ground water containing soluble salts. Through capillary action, salts present in the soil may rise several feet above the ground, producing an accumulation of salts in the masonry.

CONTROL OF EFFLORESCENCE

Since many factors influence the formation of efflorescence, it is difficult to predict if and when it will appear. However, to reduce the probability of efflorescence occurring in masonry construction, it is necessary to minimize the amount of soluble salts and moisture present in the masonry. Of the two, moisture is the more easily avoided.

Design

The reduction of moisture in concrete masonry will minimize the mechanisms that cause efflorescence. The designer must review each area of the design prior to construction to see if water can enter and where it will flow or accumulate if it does enter.

The selection of wall type—single-wythe, multi-wythe or cavity should be considered from the standpoint of resistance to rain penetration and the exposures to which it may be subjected. Design details that will prevent the entrance of moisture into the masonry assembly are critical. Details that will direct water collection away from wall tops and horizontal surfaces should be considered. If architecturally feasible, wide overhanging roofs help protect walls from rainfall.

Parapets require special attention because of their exposure.

Flashing should be installed in locations where water will tend to accumulate (i.e., parapets, spandrels, lintels, base of wall) within the masonry. The flashing should be installed to direct the water outward through weep holes.

Joints between masonry and door and window openings should be given careful attention during design as well as construction. Backer rods and sealants should be properly selected and installed in the same careful manner as other elements in the structure. TEK 19-02B Design for Dry Single-Wythe Concrete Masonry Walls and TEK 19 04A Flashing Strategies for Concrete Masonry Walls (refs. 1, 2) provide a more complete discussion on the proper use of flashings and details to minimize water entry.

Numerous surface treatments are available for the construction of weathertight concrete masonry walls. Properly applied, coatings can be relied on to give a satisfactory weathertight concrete masonry wall for up to 10 years in most geographic areas. Clear water-repellent surface treatments decrease efflorescence by repelling water from entering the masonry. However, the application of clear coatings to a masonry wall that has the tendency to effloresce, without reducing the mechanisms for the occurrence of that efflorescence, may lead to surface spalling of masonry units or deposits on the interior and/or exterior surface of the surface treatment.

The designer and owner may also want to consider the use of integral water repellents in the masonry. Integral water repellent admixtures have been shown to reduce the tendency to effloresce, since they reduce water migration throughout the wall. For more information on surface treatments and integral water repellents see TEK 19-01 Water Repellents for Concrete Masonry Walls (ref. 3).

Materials

In the selection of masonry materials, all component parts—masonry units, mortar and grout—should be considered for their soluble salt content.

At present there is no standard test for evaluating the efflorescence potential of concrete masonry units or mortar. However, in light of this absence, Standard Test Methods of Sampling and Testing Brick and Structural Clay Tile, ASTM C 67 (ref. 4) which does contain a test method to estimate efflorescence potential, is occasionally specified to evaluate concrete masonry units for efflorescence potential.

All cement should meet applicable ASTM specifications. Lime should be hydrated lime and should meet the requirements of ASTM C 207 (ref. 5). Sand should meet the requirements of ASTM C 144 (ref. 6) and clean mixing water should be used.

If walls of hollow masonry units are to be insulated by filling the cores, the insulating material should be free of harmful salts.

Construction

Materials received at the construction project should be properly stored throughout the construction process. Units should be stored on pallets, or otherwise isolated from the ground, and be adequately covered to prevent water absorption.

Materials removed from stockpiles should be handled such that they remain protected from rain and soil. If colored units are involved, the distribution from the stockpile should be such that the color range of the units is known and units with acceptable color variations are uniformly dispersed throughout the field of the masonry.

During construction, the mixer, mortar box and mortar boards should be kept clean. During cold weather construction, this equipment should not be deiced with salt or antifreeze material. Tools should also be clean and free of rust, salts and other harmful material. For example, workers should not use a shovel for salt and then use it for sand without first thoroughly washing the shovel.

Inadequate hydration of cementitious materials caused by cold temperatures, premature drying or improper use of admixtures should be prevented.

At the end of the work day and after completing one segment of masonry, the top surface of the masonry should be protected to prevent water penetration. Uncovered masonry walls are vulnerable to large quantities of water entering the wall.

Close cooperation between the masonry contractor and designer is necessary to ensure good design and detailing are correctly carried through the construction. Workmanship greatly influences the weathertightness of concrete masonry walls. Concave or vee-shaped mortar joints should be used where the masonry will be subjected to rain or freeze-thaw exposure. Tooling of the joints should be delayed until the mortar is “thumbprint hard”. This partial setting of the mortar provides resistance to the tooling action and forces the mortar tightly against the face shell of the unit to form a good weathertight seal. Joints that do not provide compression of the mortar during the tooling process such as raked, flush, and cut joints are not recommended for exterior applications. They not only do not provide the necessary compressing action against the unit, but by their very nature, leave a ledge for water to accumulate and slowly soak into the masonry.

Head joints are more vulnerable to leakage and poor workmanship as the force of gravity is not working to compress the mortar against the unit to provide a good seal. Head joints must be properly filled to the full thickness of the face shell and compacted by shoving the unit being placed against the previously laid unit. Then of course, the joint must be properly tooled. The use of water to remove surface accumulations, including efflorescence, will cause additional water to enter the wall particularly if it is applied under high pressure. This water may promote further efflorescence.

REMOVAL OF EFFLORESCENCE

Before any effort to remove the efflorescence is undertaken, the reason for the efflorescence should be established. If it is “early age efflorescence,” moist construction materials may be the cause. If “late age efflorescence” is observed, the possibility of water leakage should be investigated. If the efflorescence is near ground level, ground water may be the cause. In any case, the problem should be repaired prior to removing the efflorescence. Generally, if efflorescence is the main concern regarding masonry surface discoloration, the masonry walls should be allowed to cure and then the salts should be removed.

Compared to other stains, the removal of most types of efflorescence is relatively easy. As stated previously, most efflorescing salts are water soluble and many will disappear with normal weathering unless there is some external source of salts.

In general, most efflorescence can be removed by dry brushing followed by flushing with clean water. If brushing is not satisfactory, it may be necessary to use a very light (brush) sandblasting to remove the deposits. Brush sandblasting is sandblasting which is light enough that coarse aggregate is not exposed by the sand blasting (ref. 7). Sand blasting needs to be done with care, as it can alter the appearance of masonry by roughening the surface or exposing aggregate. There also are a variety of commercial cleaners available which may be effective for efflorescence removal. Consult manufacturer’s information for applicability.

As a last resort, a dilute solution of muriatic acid (5 to 10 percent) is sometimes used to clean the wall. For integrally colored masonry, a more dilute solution (2 percent) may be necessary to prevent surface etching that may alter colors and textures. Before an acid treatment is used on any masonry wall, the solution should be tested on a small, inconspicuous portion to be sure there is no adverse effect.

Before applying an acid solution, always wet the wall surface with clean water to prevent the acid from being absorbed deeply into the wall where damage may occur. Application should be to small areas of not more than 4 ft 2 (0.37 m2) at a time, with a delay of about 5 minutes before scouring the salt deposit with a stiff bristle brush. Use a special acid cleaning brush. Do not use a wire brush as the filings of wire left behind could result in further staining as the steel corrodes. After this treatment, the surface should be immediately and thoroughly flushed with clean water to remove all acid. If the surface is to be painted, it should be thoroughly flushed with water and allowed to weather for at least one month.

Since an acid treatment may slightly change the appearance, the entire wall should be treated to avoid uneven discoloration or mottled effects. Windows, doors, or surrounding materials may need to be protected during application.

Calcium carbonate efflorescence is extremely difficult to remove. It appears usually as a flat white deposit and in the worst cases forms a hard white crust. Any effective methods of removal can alter the texture of the block to such an extent that it is necessary to treat the entire wall area and not merely the affected regions. One method of removal reported to be effective is the use of high pressure water jet, sometimes augmented with the addition of fine sand to the water.

REFERENCES

  1. Design for Dry Single-Wythe Concrete Masonry Walls, TEK 19-02B, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 2012.
  2. Flashing Strategies for Concrete Masonry Walls, TEK 19-04A, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 2003.
  3. Water Repellents for Concrete Masonry Walls, TEK 19-01, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 2002.
  4. Standard Test Methods for Sampling and Testing Brick and Structural Clay Tile, ASTM C 67-02c, American Society for Testing Methods, Philadelphia, PA 2002
  5. Standard Specification for Hydrated Lime for Masonry Purposes, ASTM C 207-91(1997). American Society for Testing and Materials, 1997.
  6. Standard Specification for Aggregate for Masonry Mortar, ASTM C 144-02, American Society for Testing Methods, Philadelphia, PA, 2002.
  7. Maintenance of Concrete Masonry Walls, TEK 08-01A, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 1998.

Removal of Stains From Concrete Masonry

INTRODUCTION

With the continued use and expanding applications of architectural concrete masonry, segmental retaining wall units, and concrete pavers, exposed concrete masonry is becoming common across the country. Although maintenance of a well designed and constructed masonry wall is minimal, inadvertent staining from oil, grease, or other foreign substances can destroy the appearance of an otherwise attractive unpainted masonry structure. This publication provides information on effective methods for removing some of the most common stains.

STAIN PREVENTION

Many stains can be prevented or minimized through proper design, construction, and maintenance procedures. For instance design details that prevent or reduce water intrusion reduce the chance that efflorescence will occur – see Maintenance of Concrete Masonry Walls, TEK 08-01A (ref. 1).

During construction of exposed concrete masonry, minimize mortar and grout smears on the face of the units. Mortar droppings which adhere to the exposed face of the units can be removed with a trowel or chisel after being allowed to harden. Any remaining mortar can then be removed with a stiff fiber brush. Also, the base of the wall should be protected from splashing mud and mortar droppings by spreading plastic sheets 3 to 4 feet on the ground and 2 to 3 feet up the wall. Covering the tops of unfinished walls at the end of the workday prevents rain from entering the wall and thus reduces the chance of efflorescence forming on the wall. Covers should be draped at least two feet down each side of the wall and a method provided to hold them in place. See Cleaning Concrete Masonry, TEK 08-04A (ref. 6) for more information on cleaning concrete masonry during construction and further information on cleaning concrete masonry.

PLANNING AND PRECAUTIONS

The cleaning procedure should be carefully planned. No attempt should be made to remove a stain until it is identified and its removal agent determined. If the staining substance cannot be identified, it is necessary to experiment with different methods on an inconspicuous area. The indiscriminate use of an inappropriate product or the improper application of a product may result in spreading the stain over a larger area or in causing a more unsightly, difficult to remove stain. Removing stains from concrete masonry sometimes can leave the treated area lighter in color than the surrounding area because surface dirt has been removed along with the stain or the surface has become slightly bleached. This is particularly true for buildings that are several years old. This may necessitate treating the entire wall. Materials such as glass, metal, wood or architectural concrete or concrete masonry adjacent to the area to be cleaned should be adequately protected since they may be damaged by contact with some stain removers or by physical cleaning methods.

Many chemicals can be applied to concrete masonry without appreciable injury to the surface, but strong acids or chemicals with a strong acid reaction definitely should be avoided. Even weak acids should be used only as a last resort as it dissolves the cement matrix of the masonry beginning at the surface. This leaves the face more porous so that it absorbs more water and exposes more aggregate thereby changing the color and texture of the masonry.

CLEANING METHODS

The methods of cleaning concrete masonry can generally be divided into three categories water cleaning, abrasive cleaning, and chemical cleaning (ref. 2).

Water Cleaning

Water cleaning includes the use of water soaking, steam cleaning and pressure washing. Cleaning of unpainted walls can usually be accomplished by scrubbing with water and a small amount of detergent. Clay or dirt first should be removed with a dry brush. Steel wire brushes should not be used because they can leave metal particles on the surface of the masonry that later may rust and stain the masonry. Nonmetal brushes such as stiff fiber or nylon are preferred. Soaking with water causes dirt deposits to swell, loosening their grip on the underlying masonry and then allowing them to be flushed away with water. Some efflorescence can be removed when it first appears by dry brushing followed by flushing with water. More extensive efflorescence may require brushing with acid see the section on chemical cleaning or Control and Removal of Efflorescence, TEK 08-03A (ref. 3).

Heated water is useful on greasy surfaces or during cold weather. However, warm water when used with alkaline chemicals, should not exceed 160° F (71° C). There is no significant advantage to using hot water with acid cleaners (ref. 2).

Steam cleaning virtually has been supplanted by improved and innovative pressure washing equipment. However, by supplementing heat to the soaking with water, the action of loosening and softening of dirt particles and grease is improved allowing them to be more easily rinsed away. The steam is normally generated in a flash boiler and directed toward the stain by means of a wand at a pressure of 10 to 80 psi depending on the equipment used. A drawback with steam cleaning is that is rather slow when compared to pressure washing. An advantage of steam cleaning is that it essentially leaves the concrete masonry surface intact.

High-pressure washing equipment can be extremely effective for restorative cleaning of older masonry; however, when improperly applied, it can cause severe damage. If pressure application of chemical cleaning agents is considered, the surfaces to be cleaned must be thoroughly prewetted, cleansing agents must be prediluted, and the application pressures should be kept to a minimum. High pressure washing, however, should not be mistaken as a total replacement for hand labor. The mild agitation created by brush application improves the overall cleaning results while enabling rinsing pressure to be kept to a minimum.

Abrasive Cleaning

The objective in abrasive cleaning is not to dissolve and wash away the stain, but to remove the outer portion of the masonry in which the stain is deposited. Included in this category are grinding wheels, sanding discs, sanding belts, and the more popular grit blasting. Silica sand in recent years has been replaced as the abrasive blasting material by other products such as crushed slag in the concern over health hazards posed by airborne silica dusts. Protective equipment and clothing must be used, including an approved respirator under a hood.

Care must be exercised when using abrasive cleaning techniques since over zealous applications can cause drastic changes to the appearance, durability, and water tightness of the masonry. To minimize this, softer, less damaging abrasives such as crushed cornhusks, walnut shells, glass beads, etc. can be used on more delicate surfaces. This process, sometimes called micro-peening, is slower and more costly and generally is not applicable to large scale cleaning operations.

Most of the dust that accompanies the dry process can be eliminated with wet abrasive cleaning by introducing water into the air-grit stream at the nozzle. However the smaller, harmful particles remain a health hazard so the same protective equipment and clothing are needed as for the dry process. The wet process requires the extra step of rinsing down the cleaned surface after blasting.

Needless to say, previously applied waterproofing agents are removed during the abrasive cleaning process. Therefore, they need to be reapplied after abrasive cleaning.

Chemical Cleaning

The popularity of chemical cleaning techniques has increased substantially in recent years. When used in conjunction with one of the water washing techniques previously described, chemical solvents dissolve staining materials and allow them to be washed away during the final rinsing process.

Many proprietary cleansing agents for removal of stains are available today. They are generally much safer for the user in that the chemicals are premixed so there virtually is no danger of mixing reactive chemicals and also for the masonry in that they are mixed in the proper proportions. Strict adherence to the manufacturer’s directions is still required, however, as improper use can still pose danger to both the user and the masonry. For the most part, products suitable for concrete are suitable for concrete masonry and can be found at most construction specialty and automotive supply centers and at hardware or paint stores.

Tables 1 and 2 provide information covering the removal of many common materials that stain. Table 1 describes the chemicals, detergents, or poultice materials recommended for a particular stain. Table 1 also provides letter keys which indicate steps to be followed in the removal of the stain identified in Table 2.

A poultice is a paste made with a solvent or reagent and a finely powdered, absorbent, inert material used to keep stains from penetrating deeper or spreading. It also tends to pull the stain out of the pores. Enough of the solvent or reagent is added to a small quantity of the inert material to make a smooth paste. The paste is spread in a ¼ in. to ½ in. (6 to 13 mm) thick layer onto the stained area and allowed to dry. The solvent dissolves the staining substance and absorbs it into the poultice and is left as a loose, dried powdery residue that can be scraped or brushed off (ref.4). This process frequently takes several applications to remove the stain.

CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES

The following text provides general information on the chemicals and cleaning agents referenced in Table 1 (ref. 5). As with any chemical, refer to the chemical’s Material Safety Data Sheet and always follow label directions.

Ammonium Chloride (Other names: Amchlor, chloride of ammonia, darammon, salammonite)
Odorless white crystalline substance used in some agricultural processes. Available from chemical and dry-cleaning supply centers and hardware stores.
Hazards: Toxic and corrosive.

Ammonium Citrate (Other names: Citric acid, diammonium salt) White odorless substance in either granular or crystalline form. Found at supermarkets and hardware stores. Hazards: Corrosive and flammable.

Ammonium Hydroxide (Other names: Ammonia solution, ammonia water, household ammonia) A colorless liquid with a strong irritating odor. Found at most supermarkets and hardware stores. Hazards: Toxic.

Ammonium Sulfamate (Other names: Amicide, ammonium amidosulphate) A white crystalline substance commonly used as a weed killer. Found at chemical and garden supply centers. Hazards: None.

Benzene (Other names: Benzol, benzole, coal naptha) An excellent solvent and colorless liquid with characteristic odor and burning taste. Found at automotive, chemical and dry cleaning supply centers and hardware and paint stores. Hazards: Violently flammable and carcinogenic

Calcium Hypochlorite (Other names: B-K Powder, losantin, pool chlorine) White in powder, granule, or pellet form used to kill algae, fungus, and bacteria. Found in pool chemical and garden supply centers. Hazards: Corrosive to flesh and flammable when in contact with organic solvents.

Carbon Tetrachloride (Other names: Perchloromethane, tetrachloromethane) A nonflammable, clear, poisonous liquid used in fire extinguishers and as a solvent. Available at chemical, dry cleaning, and pharmaceutical supply centers, and paint stores. Hazards: Toxic.

Glycerine (Other names: Glycerol, glycyl alcohol) An odorless, colorless, syrupy liquid prepared by the hydrolysis of fats and oils. Found at chemical, pharmaceutical, photographic, and printer supply centers. Hazards: Flammable.

Denatured Alcohol (Other names: Methylated Spirit) Found at pharmaceutical and printer supply centers and hardware stores. Hazards: Toxic and flammable.

Hydrochloric Acid (Other names: Muriatic acid) A strong, highly corrosive acid commonly used for cleaning metals and balancing the pH of swimming pools. It can be found at swimming pool supply centers, chemical supply centers and hardware stores. Hazards: Toxic, very corrosive to flesh and concrete materials. Reacts vigorously with ammonia and detergents containing ammonia. Use extreme caution when handling and applying. Never use full strength. Dilute by adding acid to water, never water to acid. Rinse thoroughly within 10 minutes after applying.

Hydrogen Peroxide (Peroxide of hydrogen) A colorless, syrupy liquid used as a bleaching and disinfectant in low concentrations and as a rocket fuel in higher concentrations. Available at chemical supply centers, drug stores, supermarkets, and hardware stores. Hazards: None in the normal 3% solution. Toxic, corrosive to flesh and flammable in higher concentrations.

Sodium Citrate (Other names: Citrate of soda, trisodium citrate) White odorless substance in crystalline, granular, or powder form. Commonly used as a neutralizing buffer in chemical research. Available from chemical supply centers and drug stores. Hazards: None.

Sodium Hydrosulfite (Other names: Hydrolin) White powder with little odor. Commonly used in industrial cleaners. Found at chemical supply centers. Hazards: Very toxic when in contact with moisture.

Sodium Hypochlorite (Other names: Clorox, hypochlorous acid, household bleach) Faint yellow to clear liquid with chlorine smell. Available at supermarkets. Hazards: Corrosive to flesh.

Sodium Perborate (Other names: Perboric acid, perborax, sodium salt) White, odorless, crystalline powder commonly found in “allinone” laundry detergents and some dishwashing powders. Available at chemical and pharmaceutical supply centers and supermarkets. Hazards: Toxic and flammable when in contact with organic solvents.

Trichloroethylene (Other names: TCE, ethynyl trichloride) Colorless liquid with chloroform smell found in common cleaning solvents. Available at automotive, chemical, dry cleaning, paint, photographic, and printer’s supply centers. Hazards: Highly toxic and can react with strong alkalies in fresh mortar or concrete to form dangerous gases.

Trisodium Phosphate (Other names: Sodium orthophosphate, TSP, phosphate of soda) A crystalline, white, odorless compound found in household cleaning detergents such as “Spic and Span”. Available at supermarkets and hardware stores. Hazards: Corrosive to flesh

MATERIALS FOR POULTICES

The main properties desired in the powdered materials used to make poultices are: 1) grains sufficiently fine so the paste will hold plenty of liquid; 2) enough range in particle size so they will make a smooth, readily moldable paste; and 3) chemical inertness to the chemicals with which the powdered material is used. The last precludes using portland cement in combination with water, although it can be used with organic liquids. For the same reason, if acids are to be used, the paste must not be made with whiting (calcium carbonate), ground limestone, hydrated lime, or portland cement. Otherwise, the finely divided materials are more or less interchangeable.

Diatomaceous Earth (Other name: Diatomite, filter media, fuller’s earth) Available at swimming pool supply centers.

Lime (Other names: Calcium hydroxide, caustic lime, mason’s lime, quicklime) Available at building material supply centers and nurseries.

Portland Cement (Other names: Cement) Found at building material supply centers and ready mixed concrete plants.

Talc (Other names: Talcum powder) A very soft mineral that is a basic silicate of magnesium, has a soapy feel, usually white in color, and is used especially in making talcum powder. Available at supermarkets and drug stores.

Whiting (Other names: Calcium carbonate, baking powder) Found in nature as calcite and aragonite and in plant ashes, bones and shells. Available at supermarkets and nurseries.

REFERENCES

  1. Maintenance of Concrete Masonry Walls, TEK 08-01A, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 2004
  2. Grimm, Clayford T., Cleaning Masonry A Review of the Literature, Construction Research Center, University of Texas at Arlington, November 1988.
  3. Control and Removal of Efflorescence, TEK 08-03A. Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 2003.
  4. Removing Stains and Cleaning Concrete Surfaces, Portland Cement Association, 1988.
  5. Removing Stains from Concrete, Concrete Construction Publications, Inc., May 1987.
  6. Cleaning Concrete Masonry, TEK 08-04A, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 2005.

Concrete Masonry Construction

INTRODUCTION

Concrete masonry is a popular building material because of its strength, durability, economy, and its resistance to fire, noise, and insects. To function as designed however, concrete masonry buildings must be constructed properly.

This TEK provides a brief overview of the variety of materials and construction methods currently applicable to concrete masonry. In addition, a typical construction sequence is described in detail.

MATERIALS

The constituent masonry materials: concrete block, mortar, grout, and steel, each contribute to the performance of a masonry structure. Concrete masonry units provide strength, durability, fire resistance, energy efficiency, and sound attenuation to a wall system. In addition, concrete masonry units are manufactured in a wide variety of sizes, shapes, colors, and architectural finishes achieve any number of appearances and functions. The Concrete Masonry Shapes and Sizes Manual (ref. 4) illustrates a broad sampling of available units.

While mortar constitutes approximately 7% of a typical masonry wall area, its influence on the performance of a wall is significant. Mortar bonds the individual masonry units together, allowing them to act as a composite structural assembly. In addition, mortar seals joints against moisture and air leakage and bonds to joint reinforcement, anchors, and ties to help ensure all elements perform as a unit.

Grout is used to fill masonry cores or wall cavities to improve the structural performance and/or fire resistance of masonry. Grout is most commonly used in reinforced construction, to structurally bond the steel reinforcing bars to the masonry, allowing the two elements to act as one unit in resisting loads.

Reinforcement incorporated into concrete masonry structures increases strength and ductility, providing increased resistance to applied loads and, in the case of horizontal reinforcement, to shrinkage cracking.

Specifications governing material requirements are listed in Table 1.

CONSTRUCTION METHODS

Mortared Construction

Most concrete masonry construction is mortared construction, i.e., units are bonded together with mortar. Varying the bond or joint pattern of a concrete masonry wall can create a wide variety of interesting and attractive appearances. In addition, the strength of the masonry can be influenced by the bond pattern. The most traditional bond pattern for concrete masonry is running bond, where vertical head joints are offset by half the unit length.

Excluding running bond construction, the most popular bond pattern with concrete masonry units is stack bond. Although stack bond typically refers to masonry constructed so that the head joints are vertically aligned, it is defined as masonry laid such that the head joints in successive courses are horizontally offset less than one quarter the unit length (ref. 2). Concrete Masonry Bond Patterns (ref. 3), shows a variety of bond patterns and describes their characteristics.

Dry-Stacked Construction

The alternative to mortared construction is dry-stacked (also called surface bonded) construction, where units are placed without any mortar, then both surfaces of the wall are coated with surface bonding material. Shims or ground units are used to maintain elevations. This construction method results in faster construction, and is less dependent on the skill of the laborer than mortared construction. In addition, the surface bonding coating provides excellent rain penetration resistance. Surface Bonded Concrete Masonry Construction (ref. 9), contains further information on this method of construction.

CONSTRUCTION SEQUENCE

Mixing Mortar

To achieve consistent mortar from batch to batch, the same quantities of materials should be added to the mixer, and they should be added in the same order. Mortar mixing times, placement methods, and tooling must also be consistent to achieve uniform mortar for the entire job.

In concrete masonry construction, site-mixing of mortar should ideally be performed in a mechanical mixer to ensure proper uniformity throughout the batch. Mortar materials should be placed in the mixer in a similar manner from batch to batch to maintain consistent mortar properties. Typically, about half the mixing water is added first into a mixer. Approximately half the sand is then added, followed by any lime. The cement and the remainder of the sand are then added. As the mortar is mixed and begins to stiffen, the rest of the water is added. Specification for Masonry Structures (ref. 7) requires that these materials be mixed for 3 to 5 minutes. If the mortar is not mixed long enough, the mortar mixture may not attain the uniformity necessary for the desired performance. A longer mixing time can increase workability, water retention, and board life.

The mortar should stick to the trowel when it is picked up, and slide off the trowel easily as it is spread. Mortar should also hold enough water so that the mortar on the board will not lose workability too quickly, and to allow the mason to spread mortar bed joints ahead of the masonry construction. The mortar must also be stiff enough to initially support the weight of the concrete masonry units.

To help keep mortar moist, the mortarboard should be moistened when a fresh batch is loaded. When mortar on the board does start to dry out due to evaporation, it should be retempered. To retemper, the mortar is mixed with a small amount of additional water to improve the workability. After a significant amount of the cement has hydrated, retempering will no longer be effective. For this reason, mortar can be retempered for only 1 ½ to 2 ½ hours after initial mixing, depending on the site conditions. For example, dry, hot, and windy conditions will shorten the board life, and damp, cool, calm conditions will increase the board life of the mortar. Mortar should be discarded if it shows signs of hardening or if 2 ½ hours have passed since the original mixing.

Placing Mortar

Head and bed joints are typically in. (10 mm) thick, except at foundations. Mortar should extend fully across bedding surfaces of hollow units for the thickness of the face shell, so that joints will be completely filled. Solid units are required to be fully bedded in mortar.

Although it is important to provide sufficient mortar to properly bed concrete masonry units, excessive mortar should not extend into drainage cavities or into cores to be grouted. For grouted masonry, mortar protrusions extending more than ½ in. (13 mm) into cells or cavities to be grouted should be removed (ref. 7).

The Importance of Laying to the Line

Experienced masons state that they can lay about five times as many masonry units when working to a mason line than when using just their straightedge. The mason line gives the mason a guide to lay the block straight, plumb, at the right height, and level. The line is attached so that it gives a guide in aligning the top of the course.

If a long course is to be laid, a trig may be placed at one or more points along the line to keep the line from sagging. Before work begins, the mason should check to see that the line is level, tight, and will not pull out.

Each mason working to the same line needs to be careful not to lay a unit so it touches the line. This will throw the line off slightly and cause the rest of the course to be laid out of alignment. The line should be checked from time to time to be certain it has remained in position.

PLACING UNITS

The Foundation

Before building the block wall, the foundation must be level, and clean so that mortar will properly adhere. It must also be reasonably level. The foundation should be free of ice, dirt, oil, mud, and other substances that would reduce bond.

Laying Out the Wall

Taking measurements from the foundation or floor plan and transferring those measurements to the foundation, footing, or floor slab is the first step in laying out the wall.

Once two points of a measurement are established, corner to corner, a chalk line is marked on the surface of the foundation to establish the line to which the face of the block will be laid. Since a chalk line can be washed away by rain, a grease crayon, line paint, nail or screwdriver can mark the surface for key points along the chalk line, and a chalk line re-snapped along these key points. After the entire surface is marked for locations of walls, openings, and control joints, a final check of all measurements should be made.

The Dry Run—Stringing Out The First Course

Starting with the corners, the mason lays the first course without any mortar so a visual check can be made between the dimensions on the floor or foundation plan and how the first course actually fits the plan. During this dry layout, concrete blocks will be strung along the entire width and length of the foundation, floor slab, and even across openings. This will show the mason how bond will be maintained above the opening. It is helpful to have in. (10 mm) wide pieces of wood to place between block as they are laid dry, to simulate the mortar joints.

At this dry run the mason can check how the block will space for openings which are above the first course—windows, etc., by taking away block from the first course and checking the spacing for the block at the higher level. These checks will show whether or not units will need to be cut. Window and door openings should be double checked with the window shop drawings prior to construction.

When this is done, the mason marks the exact location and angle of the corners. It is essential that the corner be built as shown on the foundation or floor plan, to maintain modular dimensions.

Laying the Corner Units

Building the corners is the most precise job facing the mason as corners will guide the construction of the rest of the wall. A corner pole can make this job easier. A corner pole is any type of post which can be braced into a true vertical position and which will hold a taut mason’s line without bending. Corner poles for concrete block walls should be marked every 4 or 8 in. (102 to 203 mm), depending on the course height, and the marks on both poles must be aligned such that the mason’s line is level between them.

Once the corner poles are properly aligned, the first course of masonry is laid in mortar. Typically, a mortar joint between ¼ and ¾ in. (6.4 to 19 mm) is needed to make up for irregularities of the footing surface. The initial bed joint should be a full bed joint on the foundation, footing, or slab. In some areas, it is common practice to wet set the initial course of masonry directly in the still damp concrete foundation.

Where reinforcing bars are projecting from the foundation footing or slab, the first course is not laid in a full mortar bed. In this case, the mason leaves a space around the reinforcing bars so that the block will be seated in mortar but the mortar will not cover the area adjacent to the dowels. This permits the grout to bond directly to the foundation in these locations.

After spreading the mortar on the marked foundation, the first block of the corner is carefully positioned. It is essential that this first course be plumb and level.

Once the corner block is in place, the lead blocks are set— three or four blocks leading out from each side of the corner. The head joints are buttered in advance and each block is lightly shoved against the block in place. This shove will help make a tighter fit of the head joint, but should not be so strong as to move the block already in place. Care should be taken to spread mortar for the full height of the head joint so voids and gaps do not occur.

If the mason is not working with a corner pole, the first course leads are checked for level, plumb, and alignment with a level.

Corners and leads are usually built to scaffold height, with each course being stepped back one half block from the course below. The second course will be laid in either a full mortar bed or with face shell bedding, as specified.

Laying the Wall

Each course between the corners can now be laid easily by stretching a line between. It should be noted that a block has thicker webs and face shells on top than it has on the bottom. The thicker part of the webs should be laid facing up. This provides a hand hold for the mason and more surface area for mortar to be spread. The first course of block is thereafter laid from corner to corner, allowing for openings, with a closure block to complete the course. It is important that the mortar for the closure block be spread so all edges of the opening between blocks and all edges of the closure block are buttered before the closure block is carefully set in place. Also, the location of the closure block should be varied from course to course so as not to build a weak spot into the wall.

The units are leveled and plumbed while the mortar is still soft and pliable, to prevent a loss of mortar bond if the units need to be adjusted.

As each block is put in place, the mortar which is squeezed out should be cut off with the edge of the trowel and care should be taken that the mortar doesn’t fall off the trowel onto the wall or smear the block as it is being taken off. Should some mortar get on the wall, it is best to let it dry before taking it off.

All squeezed out mortar which is cut from the mortar joints can either be thrown back onto the mortar board or used to butter the head joints of block in place. Mortar which has fallen onto the ground or scaffold should never be reused.

At this point, the mason should:

  • Use a straightedge to assure the wall is level, plumb and aligned.
  • Be sure all mortar joints are cut flush with the wall, awaiting tooling, if necessary.
  • Check the bond pattern to ensure it is correct and that the spacing of the head joints is right. For running bond, this is done by placing the straightedge diagonally across the wall. If the spacing of head joints is correct, all the edges of the block will be touched by the straightedge.
  • Check to see that there are no pinholes or gaps in the mortar joints. If there are, and if the mortar has not yet taken its first set, these mortar joint defects should be repaired with fresh mortar. If the mortar has set, the only way they can be repaired is to dig out the mortar joint where it needs repairing, and tuckpoint fresh mortar in its place.
Tooling Joints

When the mortar is thumbprint hard, the head joints are tooled, then the horizontal joints are finished with a sled runner and any burrs which develop are flicked off with the blade of the trowel. When finishing joints, it is important to press firmly, without digging into the joints. This compresses the surface of the joint, increasing water resistance, and also promotes bond between the mortar and the block. Unless otherwise required, joints should be tooled with a rounded jointer, producing a concave joint. Once the joints are tooled, the wall is ready for cleaning.

Cleanup

Masonry surfaces should be cleaned of imperfections that may detract from the final appearance of the masonry structure including stains, efflorescence, mortar droppings, grout droppings, and general debris.

Cleaning is most effective when performed during the wall construction. Procedures such as skillfully cutting off excess mortar and brushing the wall clean before scaffolding is raised, help reduce the amount of cleaning required.

When mortar does fall on the block surface, it can often be removed more effectively by letting it dry and then knocking it off the surface. If there is some staining on the face of the block, it can be rubbed off with a piece of broken block, or brushed off with a stiff brush.

Masons will sometimes purposefully not spend extra time to keep the surface of the masonry clean during construction because more aggressive cleaning methods may have been specified once the wall is completed. This is often the case for grouted masonry construction where grout smears can be common and overall cleaning may be necessary.

The method of cleaning should be chosen carefully as aggressive cleaning methods may alter the appearance of the masonry. The method of cleaning can be tested on the sample panel or in an inconspicuous location to verify that it is acceptable.

Specification for Masonry Structures (ref. 7) states that all uncompleted masonry work should be covered at the top for protection from the weather.

DIMENSIONAL TOLERANCES

While maintaining tight construction tolerances is desirable to the appearance, and potentially to the structural integrity of a building, it must be recognized that factors such as the condition of previous construction and nonmodularity of the project may require the mason to vary the masonry construction slightly from the intended plans or specifications. An example of this is when a mason must vary head or bed joint thicknesses to fit within a frame or other preexisting construction. The ease and flexibility with which masonry construction accommodates such change is one advantage to using masonry. However, masonry should still be constructed within certain tolerances to ensure the strength and appearance of the masonry is not compromised.

Specification for Masonry Structures (ref. 7) contains site tolerances for masonry construction which allow for deviations in the construction that do not significantly alter the structural integrity of the structure. Tighter tolerances may be required by the project documents to ensure the fi- nal overall appearance of the masonry is acceptable. If site tolerances are not being met or cannot be met due to previous construction, the Architect/Engineer should be notified.

Mortar Joint Tolerances

Mortar joint tolerances are illustrated in Figure 1. Al- though bed joints should be constructed level, they are permitted to vary by ± ½ in. (13 mm) maximum from level provided the joint does not slope more than ± ¼ in. (6.4 mm) in 10 ft (3.1 m).

Collar joints, grout spaces, and cavity widths are permitted to vary by –¼ in. to + in. (6.4 to 9.5 mm). Provisions for cavity width are for the space between wythes of non-composite masonry. The provisions do not apply to situations where the masonry extends past floor slabs or spandrel beams.

Dimensions of Masonry Elements

Figure 2 shows tolerances that apply to walls, columns, and other masonry building elements. It is important to note that the specified dimensions of concrete masonry units are  in. (9.5 mm) less than the nominal dimensions. Thus a wall specified to be constructed of 8 in. (203 mm) concrete masonry units should not be rejected because it is 7 in. (194 mm) thick, less than the apparent minimum of 7 ¾ in. (197 1 mm) (8 in. (203 mm) minus the ¼ in. (6.4 mm) tolerance). Instead the tolerance should be applied to the 7 in. (194 mm) specified dimension.

Plumb, Alignment, and Levelness of Masonry Elements

Tolerances for plumbness of masonry walls, columns, and other building elements are shown in Figure 3. Masonry building elements should also maintain true to a line within the same tolerances as variations from plumb.

Columns and walls continuing from one story to another may vary in alignment by ± ¾ in. (19 mm) for nonloadbearing walls or columns and by ± ½ in. (13 mm) for bearing walls or columns.

The top surface of bearing walls should remain level within a slope of ± ¼ in. (6.4 mm) in 10 ft (3.1 m), but no more than ± ½ in. (13 mm).

Location of Elements

Requirements for location of elements are shown in Figures 4 and 5.

REFERENCES

  1. Building Block Walls, VO 6. National Concrete Masonry Association, 1988.
  2. Building Code Requirements for Masonry Structures, ACI 530-99/ASCE 5-99/TMS 402-99. Reported by the Masonry Standards Joint Committee, 1999.
  3. Concrete Masonry Bond Patterns, TEK 14-06, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association, 2004.
  4. Nolan, K. J. Masonry & Concrete Construction. Craftsman Book Company, 1982.
  5. Specification for Masonry Structures, ACI 530.1-99/ASCE 6-99/TMS 602-99. Reported by the Masonry Standards Joint Committee, 1999.
  6. Standard Specification for Loadbearing Concrete Masonry Units, ASTM C 90-00. American Society for Testing and Materials, 2000.
  7. Surface Bonded Concrete Masonry Construction, TEK 03-05A, Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association,1998.